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It all comes down to those eyes.

It was a raw September afternoon in York as Covid-19 restrictions began to ease. Scouting for a warm coffee shop my attention was drawn to a familiar face in the Shambles Market. And there she was, in the front of a jam packed cardboard box of vinyl records calling to me across the years, her impossibly big brown eyes pinning me momentarily to the spot.

But first, a short history lesson.

As a proud baby boomer born in the early fifties, my music buying activity began with “singles” (45rpm), followed in my late teens with “long playing” vinyl (33rpm) records. With the advances in technology over the next thirty years, I “progressed”, like many of my contemporaries, to cassette tapes, courtesy of the then revolutionary Sony Walkman, and then compact discs (CDs).

The bulk of my vinyl collection (did we refer to it as “vinyl” then?) was voraciously snaffled up by predatory dealers lurking at boot fairs on Sunday mornings. Selling a box full of classic sixties and seventies albums was as much a thrill for me (in retrospect, a short-sighted one) as it was to the wily buyer.

A single box, containing an eclectic range of rock, folk and classical titles, remained, consigned to a succession of lofts as we moved home three times. The only purchases I made for the next twenty years were CDs, and the turntable gathered dust before being discarded altogether.

I had succumbed to the prevailing mantra that CDs offered a cleaner, more precise and, therefore, satisfying, sound. Even the vinyl comeback in the early years of the new millennium failed to convince me to abandon this approach.

The reason was primarily a matter of cost. I was not in a position to pay £30 for a new 180g pressing of an album I had bought fifty years previously for thirty shillings (£1.50!). And then there was the outlay that would be required on a new turntable to consider.

But as vinyl collection became increasingly fashionable again, I found myself pawing through boxes in the growing number of independent record shops and market stalls, joining in the arcane and, to some tastes, boring, conversations among boomers like myself that accompanied the pursuit.

But the likelihood of my leaving with an LP under my arm remained a slim one.

Until our eyes met as dusk descended over the Shambles Market.

I think it’s time I revealed the identity of the person whose eyes so transfixed me and drove me to a fateful decision.

None other than Linda Ronstadt, not only the most beautiful, but also the most versatile (country rock, Hispanic ballads, American standards, opera, the list goes on) singer of her generation. I was unable to resist buying her eponymous album (readers lacking a soul might suggest that I would have been better just cutting up the outer sleeve and framing it).

It still took a lengthy sermon from the guy manning the stall in the market to cement my conversion. Jackson Browne’s For Everyman and Van Morrison’s Hard Nose the Highway , each at an affordable price, sealed the deal. Within a week I had introduced them to a new, attractive yet moderately priced turntable.

And then the fun started……with a twist.

Cost continued to be a major factor in my purchasing strategy. But there was an even more important criterion – I would not, with occasional exceptions, buy an album that post dated the time I had previously stopped collecting vinyl.

To date, I have bought a little over a hundred albums in the four years since my Yorkshire epiphany, some “new” but the majority second hand from independent stores, fairs and market stalls, online retailers and charity shops, ranging in price from £1.99 to £35, most in the lower price range. I have rejected others if they looked as if they were damaged. Very few have disappointed.

I have striven to resist becoming a vinyl bore but there is no question in my mind that it has a warmth and spirit that is largely absent from the more clinical, “perfect” alternatives. Some surface noise only adds to the enhanced atmosphere.

And I have overcome my propensity to whinge whenever I have to get up every twenty minutes to turn the disc over!


It was midday and the stores on Haight Street were drowsily coming to life under a warming sun. A gaggle of skateboarders, ageing “heads”, dogs and guitars waited at the lights at Stanyan to cross over to Hippie Hill for an afternoon of music, marijuana and merriment.

We had just enjoyed a sumptuous lunch of chicken pesto, Greek chicken wraps and hummus plate at the Blue Front Café, (sadly, one of the many eateries that has subsequently closed), and were entering a brightly coloured establishment which had historically divested us of our holiday dollars more than any other over the previous two decades.

As we planted ourselves in the rear of the store to look for any new tie-dye shirts from Liquid Blue, the silence was broken by a chirpy Californian female voice.

“Hey, you guys, let me explain the layout in here for you. At this end you will find the Grateful Dead t-shirts, organised by size, while over here are my own designs…….”

It was clear that the woman was going to continue with this well-rehearsed speech for some time, and, of course, she was only trying to be helpful. But I have an aversion to being what I perceive as “stalked” in stores by staff when all I want to do is look for myself and ask questions if I have a need.

So, I interrupted her rather abruptly – for which I have since apologised on many occasions – explaining that for nearly twenty years we had been rummaging through her colourful stock, and left laden with t-shirts, dresses, badges, stickers and other paraphernalia.

Rather than being deterred by my rude riposte, she squealed at the news, thanking us for our custom (not service – that is generally reserved for the military) and asking us where we were from, a perfectly reasonable icebreaker if one were really needed. I explained that we were from England, that I had revered the Dead since the late sixties and had visited the store many times before. This triggered a discussion about our mutual love for the music and the city.

I mentioned that we were heading for the Great American Music Hall that evening to see Dark Star Orchestra, the band formed in Chicago that had been replicating entire Dead shows since 1997. Alicia, as she was called, was thrilled to hear and said “we’re going too, do you wanna hang out?” By “we” she had included her partner, Jerry (no, not that one) who was, at the time, the long term owner of the store.

Despite the presumption (at least to British ears) in the question we instantly accepted the offer, and as we left with Casey Jones and Alice in Wonderland tees, arranged to meet in the line outside the venue at 6pm.

Disembarking the 47 Muni, rather uncharitably dubbed by my wife the “stinky bus”, at Van Ness and O’Farrell, we strode excitedly along the two blocks to join a mercifully short line at the venue. Dead concerts past were recalled as the air reeked of pot and a lone, long haired man patrolled the street with a barely legible, but at least grammatically correct, “I need a miracle” message scrawled on a scrap of cardboard with a Sharpie.

Alicia and Jerry joined us ten minutes later and we made our way to the upper floor where we had booked tables, allowing a prime position leaning on the railing that overlooked the stage below. We could not have had a better view as we christened our new tie-dye outfits. The ticket price had included a meal from a limited menu. With Californian and English choices on offer, we all opted for the latter – fish and chips (the American version of several small fish pieces rather than the single, larger British version).

This was the second time we had seen Dark Star Orchestra, the first having been at the House of Blues in Las Vegas on the eve of my sixtieth birthday two years earlier, when they had played a show from the early nineties which my wife had struggled to embrace, leading her to abandon the show midway through the second set halfway through a characteristically lengthy Eyes of the World jam in favour of the penny slot machines on the Mandalay Bay casino floor. 

She had still not, at this stage, been fully converted to the Dead’s music, despite the fact that I had tried for thirty years to convince her of their greatness. She did, however, enjoy many of the earlier, shorter songs like Sugar Magnolia, Uncle John’s Band, Box of Rain and her favourite, Bertha.

I had been hoping that, being in San Francisco, they might play a Fillmore (West) concert on this evening, perhaps even from the run featured on the Live Dead album from 1969. And that, with some minor adaptations, is exactly what we got. I was beside myself, and my wife was happy too.

Mid way through the first set they announced that they were being joined by a special guest – Grateful Dead rhythm guitarist Bob Weir! He jammed with the band on St. Stephen and sang one of his signature cowboy songs, Me and My Uncle. The following year Bob similarly “gate crashed” Steve Earle’s set at Hardly Strictly Bluegrass in 2016. And more than a decade later, during which he had headlined Dead and Company, Wolf Brothers and countless other musical projects, and at the age of seventy eight, he shows little sign of putting himself out to pasture.

Sam Cutler, former manager of both the Dead and the Rolling Stones, spoke to the audience between sets when, naturally, I bought a t-shirt from the merchandise table, an item of clothing I reprised to lead guitarist Jeff Matson’s delight at the band’s concert at Shepherd’s Bush Empire in London in September 2022.

The concert continued past midnight. It had been a special evening, we had bonded with Alicia and Jerry, forging a friendship that continued to flourish and which led to us staying at their home with them in Petaluma on a number of occasions, attending concerts, Giants and 49ers games and meals together as well as them (separately) visiting the UK and all of us, including their two children, Aiden (Alicia’s by a previous marriage) and Ely (their own son) meeting up subsequently in Chicago.

As the Covid-19 pandemic caused a hiatus in our physical connection, we met up on Zoom on a weekly basis as they prepared to go for a morning cycle and we cooked our Sunday dinner! We even danced to favourite Dead songs when the conversation, as it did rarely, lagged.

The story of our relationship has subsequently taken several dramatic and unexpected turns, which I will address on another occasion.


Sun smiles on puddles

Bacon sizzles on the grill

Voices soar from Kings.


“I get your affection for sourdough bread and the Giants, but Muni? Are you crazy?”

I can hear any resident or informed visitor exclaim.

“The service is totally unreliable, the drivers insolent and a sizeable number of its customers are so weird, not to say unhygienic, that they’d fail the audition for any self-respecting freak show”.

Ah, but there’s the rub. It is the “all human life is there” quality that makes Muni or, to give it its official title, the San Francisco Municipal Transportation Agency, so endearing – provided, of course, that you’re not planning to be any place soon or are of a squeamish disposition.

But then – I don’t have to travel on it every day, though, on balance, I think I might, at least if only for the material it would provide for my writing.

As a child, I remember hearing from my tiny black and white television set that there were “eight million stories in the naked city”. I doubt there are many fewer accounts of life on Muni. Here are some of mine.

But I would never desert the Muni buses or the clanking F Streetcar service, both of which provide the perfect stage for San Franciscans to play out their anxieties or set the world to rights.

Few Muni journeys are uneventful, even when as time has gone on, a greater proportion of passengers have their noses pressed against a mobile phone screen.

On this occasion, however, we enjoyed one of those classic and not infrequent confrontations between driver and passenger.At Church and 18th on one occasion, a fearsome looking, heavily built and extravagantly inked gentleman boarded at the rear with his equally frightening American Staffordshire Bull Terrier. Now, the sign at the front of the bus declared that “any number of signal, service or guide dogs for the disabled are allowed to ride Muni free and unmuzzled”.

On the face of it, it appeared that this particularly member of the canine family was unlikely to fall into any of the above categories, hence the intervention from the brave driver, a slight, fifty something Chinaman, felt that this was not the case who hollered:

“Muzzle that dog at the back”.

“He’s a service dog”.

The driver was undaunted:

“Muzzle that dog at the back”.

To which the newly boarded passenger repeated in a gruffer tone:

He’s a service dog”.

This utterance was accompanied by several violent and obscene gestures which had the effect of diverting the attention of his fellow passengers momentarily from their digital companions.

At this point, the driver discreetly and wisely withdraw from the confrontation and the back of the bus breathed a collective sign of relief. One young man, judging that it might still be in his best interests to befriend the man, summoned up the courage to enquire of the victor:

“What are his (the dog’s) skills?”

“Seizure alert” was the blunt response.

“Oh I get ya”.

I doubt he did, but it seemed imprudent to prolong the conversation, and this was a sound withdrawal strategy.

Nobody was going to gainsay that, although it did provoke a seemingly measured discussion about the value of muzzling dogs on Muni. Fortunately, the debate had not reached the stage where the dog’s party piece would be put to the test before we disembarked at 29th Street and the climb back to our Bernal Heights cottage.


The line for breakfast in Martha’s on Church was long, stretching to the sidewalk. I ordered two decaf lattes and bagels to go. I was assailed by a grey, pig-tailed man around my age in Moody Blues t-shirt and crumpled check shorts, intrigued by my accent and “Closing of Winterland” t-shirt, he enquired:

“Do you live in the City?”

“I wish. But no, I’m staying in a cottage a few blocks away for a month”.

“Wow, you Brits really seem to love it here. Love your shirt by the way. I was there”.

“Thanks, and my turn to say wow. I have to make do with the CD and DVD”.

We stepped to one side as the line lengthened further.

“We’ve been going to concerts here for two decades. We were at the Great American Music Hall with Dark Star Orchestra last night”.

“Nice. Y’know, I’ve never seen them, but I’ve heard they’re pretty close to the Dead”.

“Yeah, they play whole shows and last night’s was the Fillmore ’69 which was view of music heaven. And Bob Weir joined them for a couple of numbers”.

“Double wow! They must have been awesome. It’s funny but you guys are wedded to the Dead, while I’ve travelled all over the UK pretty regularly to see concerts. I’ve seen the Stones, Pink Floyd and the Moody Blues, of course”.

“That’s weird but cool, because we’ve probably seen more gigs in the States than we would at home. In the past few years we’ve seen Crosby and Nash, Elvis Costello, the Doobie Brothers, Steve Miller Band, Phil Lesh and Bob Weir all in the city, and Eric Burdon in South Lake Tahoe”.

Another baby boomer further back in the line began to regale us of times following the Dead on tour in the eighties, but was cut short by the welcome announcement that my bagels were ready.


Picture the scene – one of the checkouts at Morrisons supermarket on Cheriton Road in the late summer of 2018.

I have placed my shopping on the conveyor belt along with my walking tour embossed satchel.

As the middle aged woman on the till begins to ring through my fresh tagliatelle, packet of arrabbiata sauce and bottle of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo – enough to begin with to raise her eyebrows at – she spies my bright red bag.

The conversation goes like this.

Woman (sniffily)

Folkestone Walking Tours – hmmm. What’s that mean?

Me (enthusiastically)

I deliver walking tours of Folkestone.

Woman (inquisitively)

Oh. You’re from Folkestone then, are you?

Me (informatively)

No, I moved here two years ago.

Woman (aggressively)

I’ve lived here all my life. What makes you think you know all about it then?

Me (pleasantly if defensively)

I certainly don’t. But I love Folkestone, having spent my holidays here as a child. And I want to share that with visitors and others,

I’ve also done a lot of research and talked to many people who are lifelong residents.

Woman (distrustfully)

Well, it doesn’t sound right to me.

Me (helpfully)

Perhaps you could come on one of my tours and see for yourself? You’d be very welcome.

Woman (irritatingly)

That’s not my sort of thing. Besides, I can’t walk very far.

I bag my Italian feast for two, pay and make my excuses.

I should finish by making it clear that I had nothing to do with the fire that raged through the building a couple of months later.


Many of our trips to San Francisco have coincided (intentionally) with the free Hardly Strictly Bluegrass festival in Golden Gate Park over the first, invariably warm, weekend of October.

There have been a number of high spots over recent years with regular performances in particular from Steve Earle (with a guest appearance from Bob Weir of the Grateful Dead), Emmylou Harris (who traditionally closes the festival), Jack Casady and Jorma Kaukonen, guitar gods from Jefferson Airplane, the Neville Brothers, John Prine, Robert Plant, the Blind Boys of Alabama and Moonalice who performed a set of songs penned by the then recently deceased Robert Hunter, principal lyricist for the Grateful Dead.

The atmosphere could not be further from the corporate, money-driven ethos of Glastonbury and similar events and fitting that San Francisco where, along with other Californian venues, the concept of free outdoor rock festivals effectively originated in the late sixties.

But the highlight for me came in 2019 with Judy Collins. But before that I need to take you back twelve months to San Rafael in Marin County. A store owner friend of mine in Folkestone asked if I could deliver a note to Phil Lesh, the former Grateful Dead bass player, at his performance/dining venue at Terrapin Crossroads (sadly now closed, though the music lives on).

Not only was I able to deliver the note, which stated that she had adored him since the Europe ’72 tour, successfully but I also had the opportunity of a few minutes chat with the great man, who signed a postcard of his own for me to pass on to her on my return.

So pleased was my friend that I had succeeded in achieving a task that might not unreasonably have been perceived as unlikely – after all, Phil didn’t rap with random British guys in his bar every day – that she set me an even more challenging task twelve months later.

It appears that she had been as besotted with Judy Collins’s music for more than half a century as she had been with Phil Lesh’s music over the same period of time. So she asked me to deliver a letter from her to Judy on the afternoon that she was performing.

Now walking across a barroom floor to request a quick chat with a music superstar is a piece of cake compared to gaining access to another legendary artist in the middle of one of the world’s largest parks and when there are tens of thousands of other people in close proximity.

The afternoon arrived, and as the appointed time for Judy’s set approached, I gingerly made my way to the front of the stage – there did not appear to be an obvious place to go “backstage” – I was accosted, firmly but politely, by a burly African-American gentleman who may have been thinking I was getting a little too close.

I explained my predicament – which, even to my own mind, seemed a bit odd. He listened carefully and took the letter from me without making any promises. I did not hold out much hope for a positive response, but around five minutes later he returned in a similarly measured way and informed me that “Miss Collins has received the note”.

My joy would have been unconfined had Judy referred to it whilst she was on stage, but she did not. She did, however, sing Both Sides Now to me – well, me and many others – on my birthday.


1.

The seven year old boy

In crew cut and tiny shorts

Sits cross-legged on

The chilly wooden floor of

The school assembly hall,

Singing, or rather miming

Along to his favourite carol.

Little Jesus, sweetly sleep,

Do not stir,

We will lend a coat of fur,

We will rock you,

Rock you, rock you

We will rock you,

Rock you, rock you

See the fur to keep you warm.

Snugly round your tiny form.

2.

As the clock strikes two

On a cold Christmas morning,

A short, portly figure,

Fuelled by Watney’s Red Barrel,

Creeps up creaking stairs,

And through half-closed bedroom door

Of the half-sleeping boy

To leave a bulging white paper sack,

Complimenting himself on fooling his son

That he is a certain someone else.

But the child has known better

These past two years,

And through half-open eyes

Perpetuates the falsehood.

3.

In the snow-sprinkled back yard,

The thrill of Meccano set,

Beano and Dandy Annuals

And Cadbury’s selection box

Still fresh in his giddy mind,

The boy is struck between the eyes

By a neatly rolled and deadly fastball

Flung by the same fake Santa

That visited him seven hours before.

But there is neither time for crying

Nor testing the capacity

Of the new chemistry set

To blow up the house

As the main event approaches.

4.

Three tables of differing design,

Height, width and degree of wonkiness

Are wedged together with an

Equally eccentric assortment of chairs

Looted from every room in the house,

Fifteen pews laid for a congregation

Spanning three generations.

The grandfather, prior to the

Ceremonial carving of the turkey,

Leads the toast to his wife

And four daughters-in-law

For the preparation of the feast.

Secretly, he prays there will be

Enough of the bird left over

To lie with his beloved piccalilli

In sandwiches he will take for lunch

At Chatham Dockyard

The day after Boxing Day.

5.

As the tables are cleared away,

The children squabble over

The sixpences and threepenny bits

Found in their Christmas pudding,

While the cooks sit down to squint

At Billy Smart’s Circus

On the seventeen inch

Black and white television,

Precariously perched beneath

The curtained budgerigar cage,

And husbands are grudgingly

Despatched to the kitchen

For washing up duties.

6.

The family singalong takes centre stage

When a favourite uncle, worse for wear

From a cocktail of cheap fizz,

Gassy beer and Bols advocaat,

Leads the traditional rendition

Of the “music master”

Who “comes from down your way”.

The children wrestle weariness

As they pi-a-pi-a-pi-a-no

And umpa-umpa-umpa-pa

To their heart’s content,

Their giggling intensified

By the bandleader flicking

A loose premolar with his tongue

In time to the music.

7.

Wives ascend the stairs to sleep,

But only after mock protests

At having to prepare Irish coffees

For their sozzled spouses,

A ritual as venerable as

The monarch’s festive message

Or overdone brussel sprouts.

8.

As the boy finally succumbs

To slumberous thoughts,

He dreams of the highlight to come –

The Boxing Day football match.


A tangle of wooden stairs

Criss cross the patios

On a humid late afternoon.

Bottlebrush and butterflies

Flutter in the stifling breeze.

Plump ripe limes droop

In cracked terracotta pots

And tireless bees cavort

Among the jasmine shrubs.

The breasts of the maiden

Temporarily lose their nipples

Till Sutro Tower pokes through the fog.

The screech of cop cars on Mission

Cannot compete with

The joyful laughter of

Mexican and Chinese children

Let loose from Saint James school

On Fair Oaks Street.


St Charles Place or posh Pall Mall,
Vermont Avenue or Euston Road?
Pancakes and waffles or Eggs Royale?
Depends I guess on your own post code.

Kentucky Avenue or The Strand,
Park Place apartments or Park Lane?
Theatre on Broadway or West End?
Luxury living or fancy hotel chain?

Reading Road or Kings Cross Station,
Ventnor Avenue or Coventry Street?
Which is the pride of their home nation?
I’d wager they both smell just as sweet.

Atlantic Avenue or Leicester Square,
Marvin Gardens or Piccadilly?
Would you wish to shop here or there?
Or am I being just plain silly?

The game’s the same either side of the pond
Full of guile and cunning, and just plain greed,
Which is why I am hopeless and cannot respond,
I much prefer Scrabble I have to concede.